Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Q: What should I look for when buying a blazer?

Q: What should I look for when buying a blazer?

Hi Steve,

Thanks for writing.

Whether you're shopping for a blazer, which is usually solid, or a sport coat, which is typically patterned or textured, there are four things to keep in mind. 

SIZE
Not to state the obvious, but first figure out your size. Most critical is the fit of the shoulder. The seam on the jacket should sit directly above the edge of your shoulder. Most guys buy jackets that are too big. Even the best tailor can't fix an ill-fitting shoulder, so get this detail correct and you're off to a good start. 

SLEEVES
Next, focus on the sleeve length. They should end about a half-inch above your hand, allowing room for your shirt cuff to show. If you are 5'7", try a short jacket length. If you're 5'8" to 6', try a regular jacket first. If you are 6' or taller, you'll probably need a long. Tip: Wear a long sleeved dress shirt when you get fitted in your blazer. This helps the tailor know how to adjust the sleeves. 

BODY
And while we're on the subject, have you seen men trying on suits waving their arms around like fools, complaining the jacket is too tight? This garment is intended to provide structure, and therefore it should not fit like a Snuggie, although off the rack, the body of the jacket might be a little boxy. If that's the case, ask your tailor to have it taken in so it skims your torso. Traditional fits are typically longer in the body, while modern fits are cut shorter. Either way, if the bottom of the jacket falls below your butt, it's too long. Ideally, the end of your sleeve and the bottom of the jacket should more or less line up. 

STYLE
Traditional blazers have metal buttons, which is great if you're captaining a yacht. We find them slightly distracting. Thankfully, you have options. We're big fans of the knit blazer, which marries the comfort of a sweatshirt with the structure of a jacket, like this from Theory--or a couple classic options from Banana Republic and Hugo Boss sans gold buttons. We also like this casual chino blazer from Bonobos.

Hope this helps!

--The Men's Health Style Team

Follow us @MensHealthStyle for more answers to your grooming questions.

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