How is a woman to sift through the seemingly endless anti-aging options and know when she should be using what? Where is the guiding light to show us what we should be doing to keep our skin great for the rest of our lives? We found her. Debra Jaliman, M.D., a New York City dermatologist and author of Skin Rules, shares the anti-aging products you need to be using right now—and how that should change in the coming years.
In Your Twenties
Sunscreen and Antioxidants
Beating sun damage to the aging punch is especially important in your twenties. Sun exposure over time is proven to accelerate aging, as it damages the elastin that makes skin look youthful. Jaliman says to use a broad-spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen in the morning to protect skin from the sun, and then to apply an antioxidant serum in the evening to fight any formation of free radicals that the sun may have caused.
TRY: Obaji Professional-C Suncare SPF 30 ($70, skinstore.com) and Juice Beauty Antioxidant Serum ($45, Ulta.com).
Niacinamide
This compound ingredient combines the power of vitamin B3 and nicotinic acid to even out skin pigments while improving elasticity. Jaliman says that this ingredient is a must in for anyone in their twenties to prevent early signs of aging.
TRY: Rodial Dragon's Blood Cleansing Water ($36, skinstore.com).
Glycolic or Salicylic Acid
Cell turnover is key for youthful-looking skin, and Jaliman says that there is no better time to start a routine that helps promote this process than in your twenties. Products that include glycolic or salicylic acid remove the layer of dead skin cells at the surface and bring new skin cells to the surface, making skin look bright and refreshed. This exfoliation also helps with acne, says Jaliman. Use this in the morning after washing skin with an oil-combatting cleanser.
TRY: Mario Badescu Glycolic Acid Toner ($18, Mario Badescu).
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In Your Thirties
Retinol
This ingredient is not only an antioxidant; it also treats discolorations, wrinkles, and acne while increasing collagen production. Your thirties is the best time to start using it; add it to your nightly routine to reap the rewards.
TRY: SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0 ($63, SkinCeuticals).
Cleansing Exfoliators
Once you hit the big 3-0, Jaliman recommends moving away from acid-based products to slough off dead skin and trying sonic cleansing systems or exfoliating cleansers instead. Both of these promote cell turnover, and as you age, your skin doesn't naturally regenerate as quickly.
TRY: Clarisonic Mia Skin Cleansing System ($99, Sephora) for dry skin and boscia Tsubaki Oil-Infused Exfoliating Powder ($36, Sephora) for oily skin
Peptides
Peptides are an excellent ingredient to add to your skin-care routine—especially for wrinkles in the under-eye area—since they help skin produce collagen, says Jaliman. While collagen helps fill in fine lines and wrinkles, peptides also work to prevent wrinkles in the first place.
TRY: Kinerase C8 Peptide Under Eye Treatment ($68, Kinerase).
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In Your Forties
Growth Factors
These molecules exist in all cells in the human body, and when engineered into skin-care products, they can repair DNA, aid in protein synthesis, and boost collagen production, says Jaliman. In other words, these are like peptides on steroids—and using them at night can result in fewer wrinkles and age spots.
TRY: AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum ($149, truthinaging.com).
Caffeine
Caffeine is for more than just your mid-morning pick me up. Jaliman recommends using eye gels packed with the ingredient to constrict the under-eye blood vessels that lead to puffiness. To really soothe this sensitive area, try keeping the gel in your refrigerator to add a cooling effect during application.
TRY: Bliss Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing Eye Gel ($50, Sephora).
Mild Cleansers
"It's very important not to strip the skin of its natural oils as you get older," says Jaliman. Why? If you over-cleanse, it will throw your skin out of whack and open it up to the free radicals that cause signs of aging and clog pores. Jaliman recommends looking for a gentle cleanser that contains glycerin or ceramides and only using a sonic cleansing brush once a day (in the morning).
TRY: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Purifying Cream Skin Cleanser ($29.50, Elizabeth Arden).
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Flonida 5% Cream contains Fluorouracil which has a place with a gathering of hostile to cancer medicines. It uses to treat skin conditions like keratosis and some straightforward skin cancers.
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