Rock climbing isn't for the faint of heart. You need strength, endurance, willpower, sharp wits, and nerves of steel to make an epic ascent. Prepare mentally and physically for the crags with this plan from Rob Shaul, coach and founder of Mountain Athletics in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and Jordan Smothermon, a climbing coach at the same gym. In just four weeks, you'll build a rock-solid body, strengthen specific muscles needed for the sport, and boost your climbing capacity. Are you ready to reach new heights?
DIRECTIONS: Do Workout A, Workout B, and Workout C once a week, resting at least one day between them. Begin the program four weeks before your climb.
KEY TERMS YOU NEED TO KNOW
Boulder Problem: This is a route at a rock climbing gym that's typically designated by a specific color.
V-Number: Each boulder problem is given a v-number, or difficulty rating. The easiest is V-0 with advanced being V-5. However, v-numbers can go well above 5--but most people can't complete them. (For instance, a V-14 is thought to be almost impossible). A v-number can be found at the beginning of each problem. Consult experts at your local rock gym to learn their v-number marking system.
V-Sum: Add up the v-numbers for the 8 most difficult bouldering problems you can complete. This is your v-sum. Every week, re-test yourself during Workout A to gauge your progress.
WORKOUT A
WARMUP
HOW TO DO IT: Perform the exercises in the order shown, without resting. Complete all reps of an exercise before moving on to the next. That's 1 round. Do 3 total.
1. 25-Move Wall Traverse
Find an open space on a climbing wall. Grab holds that aren't far from the floor, and traverse--or move sideways--using 25 moves. Every time you touch a hold, that's one move. Twenty-five moves should take about 30 to 40 seconds to complete.
2. Pushup
Assume a plank position with your arms straight and your hands slightly beyond shoulder width. Your body should form a straight line from your head to your ankles. Bend your elbows and lower your body until your chest nearly touches the floor. Pause, push yourself back to the starting position. That's 1 rep. Do 5.
3. Situp
Lie on your back with your feet flat on the floor. Bend your knees 90 degrees. Raise your torso into a sitting position. Pause, then slowly lower back to the starting position. That's one repetition. Do 10.
4. Ultimate Elbow Stretch
Stand facing a wall. Your arms should be straight down by your sides, and your palms should be pressed against the wall. Without letting your palms release from the wall, walk your feet forward and try to get your chest and shoulders to touch the wall. Hold for 10 seconds. (Click here to watch how to perform the move.)
CLIMBING
V-Sum Complex: Based on your level, climb 8 difficult bouldering routes. If possible, do not repeat routes. Add the v-numbers of each route to get your v-sum score.WORKOUT B
WARMUP
HOW TO DO IT: Perform the exercises in the order shown, without resting. Complete all reps of an exercise before moving on to the next. That's 1 round. Do 4 total.
1. Bodyweight Squat
Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart. Lower your body as far as you can by pushing your hips back and bending your knees until your thighs are parallel to the floor. Pause, and slowly stand back up. That's 1 rep. Do 10.
2. Situp
Lie on your back with your feet flat on the floor. Bend your knees 90 degrees. Raise your torso into a sitting position. Pause, then slowly lower back to the starting position. That's one repetition. Do 10.
3. Pushup
Assume a plank position with your arms straight and your hands slightly beyond shoulder width. Your body should form a straight line from your head to your ankles. Bend your elbows and lower your body until your chest nearly touches the floor. Pause, push yourself back to the starting position. That's 1 rep. Do 5.
4. Pullup
Hang from a bar using an overhand grip with your hands slightly wider than shoulder-width apart. Pull your chin up past the bar, and then lower your body back down. That's 1 rep. Do 3 to 5.
5. Dead Hang -- 10 seconds
Grab a pullup bar with your hands slightly wider than shoulder-width apart. Keeping your shoulders away from your ears, hang without letting your feet touch the floor. Hold this hang for 10 seconds.
6. Ultimate Elbow Stretch
Stand facing a wall. Your arms should be straight down by your sides, and your palms should be pressed against the wall. Without letting your palms release from the wall, walk your feet forward and try to get your chest and shoulders to touch the wall. Hold for 10 seconds.
CLIMBING
SET 1
Hangboard Complex: On a hangboard, select holds for each hand that are wide enough for 4 fingers and deep enough for your first finger joint. You'll hang by two hands, but the number of fingers you use on each hand changes each round.
ROUND 1
Four-Finger Hold (on both hands): 7 seconds
Rest: 10 seconds
ROUND 2
Three-Finger Hold: 7 seconds
Rest: 10 seconds
ROUND 3
Two-Finger Hold: 7 seconds
Rest: 10 seconds
ROUND 4
Four-Finger Hold: 7 seconds
Rest: 60 seconds
SET 2
Perform the exercises in the order shown, without resting. Complete all reps of an exercise before moving on to the next. That's 1 round. Do 6 total.
1. Dumbbell Front Squat
Hold a pair of dumbbells with your palms facing each other, upper arms perpendicular to the floor, and one end of each dumbbell resting on the meatiest part of your shoulder. Push your hips back and lower your body into a squat, and push back up. That's 1 rep. Do 5.
2. Dumbbell Shoulder Press
Stand holding a pair of dumbbells just outside your shoulders, your arms bent and palms facing each other. Press the weights directly over your shoulders until your arms are straight. Then slowly lower the dumbbells to the starting position. That's 1 rep. Do 5.
3. Feet-Elevated Hip Lift
Lie on your back with your feet on a bench and your knees bent at a 90-degree angle. Squeezing your glutes, lift your hips until you form a straight line from your shoulders to your knees. Pause, then slowly lower back to the starting position. That's 1 rep. Do 10.
SET 3
Hangboard Complex: Perform the same complex as you did in SET 1.
SET 4
Perform the exercises in the order shown, without resting. Complete all reps of an exercise before moving on to the next. That's 1 round. Do 4 total.
1. Flutter Kick
Lie with your back flat on the floor and your arms extended a few inches from your sides, palms up. Without crunching upwards, lift your legs about six inches off of the ground. Alternate kicking your feet as if you were performing the backstroke, keeping your heels off the ground the entire time. Each kick is one rep. Do 20.
2. Russian Twist
Sit holding a medicine ball or light dumbbell in front of your chest. Lean your torso back slightly and raise your feet off the floor. Now rotate the weight to your left and then to your right. Move back and forth quickly. Do 10 reps.
3. Plank
Assume a pushup position, but with your elbows bent and your weight resting on your forearms. Your body should form a straight line from your head to your heels. Brace your abs as if you're about to be punched in the gut. Hold this position for 45 seconds.
4. Pigeon Stretch
Kneel on the ground. Let your left knee fall away from your body so your shin is in front of your torso. Stretch your right leg out behind. Place your hands on the floor for balance. You should feel a stretch in your left glute and hip muscles. Hold for 15 seconds, and then switch sides.
SET 5
Hangboard Complex: Perform the same complex as you did in SET 1 and SET 3.
WORKOUT 3
WARMUP
HOW TO DO IT: Perform the exercises in the order shown, without resting. Complete all reps of an exercise before moving on to the next. That's 1 round. Do 3 total.
1. 20-Move Wall Traverse
Find an open space on a climbing wall. Grab holds that aren't far from the floor, and traverse--or move sideways--using 20 moves. Every time you touch a hold, that's one move. Twenty moves should take about 25 to 30 seconds to complete.
2. Pushup
Assume a plank position with your arms straight and your hands slightly beyond shoulder width. Your body should form a straight line from your head to your ankles. Bend your elbows and lower your body until your chest nearly touches the floor. Pause, push yourself back to the starting position. That's 1 rep. Do 5.
3. Lunge -- 10 reps
From a standing position take a large step forward with one leg. Slowly lower your body until your front knee is bent at least 90 degrees. Pause, then push youruself to the starting position as quickly as you can. Switch legs and repeat. That's 1 rep. Do 10.
4. Situp
Lie on your back with your feet flat on the floor. Bend your knees 90 degrees. Raise your torso into a sitting position. Pause, then slowly lower back to the starting position. That's one repetition. Do 10.
5. Instep Stretch
Assume a pushup position. Bending your knee and moving at the hip, bring your right leg forward so your foot is outside your hand. If you can, bend your elbows and rest your weight on your forearms. Hold the stretch for 20 seconds, and then switch sides and repeat.
CLIMBING
SET 1
Boulder Problem Complex: Select a boulder problem that is 2 difficulties less than your v-sum score. Complete the prescribed number of reps, and then immediately perform the same number of burpees and 10 bodyweight squats. That's 1 round. You'll perform 10 rounds total.
ROUND 1
Boulder problem: 5 reps
Burpee: 5 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 2
Boulder problem: 4 reps
Burpee: 4 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 3
Boulder problem: 3 reps
Burpee: 3 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 4
Boulder problem: 2 reps
Burpee: 2 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 5
Boulder problem: 2 reps
Burpee: 2 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 6
Boulder problem: 1 rep
Burpee: 1 rep
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 7
Boulder problem: 2 reps
Burpee: 2 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 8
Boulder problem: 3 reps
Burpee: 3 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 9
Boulder problem: 4 reps
Burpee: 4 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
ROUND 10
Boulder problem: 5 reps
Burpee: 5 reps
Bodyweight squat: 10 reps
SET 2
Perform the exercises in the order shown, without resting. Complete all reps of an exercise before moving on to the next. That's 1 round. Do 4 total.
1. EO's
Lie on your back with your feet elevated and knees bent at 90-degrees. Raise your arms with your elbows bent at 90-degrees. Using your core, roll your shoulders to the right. Without putting your feet on the floor, lift your hips and roll to the right. Your body should "walk" down the floor. Perform the exercise to the right for 20 seconds, and then repeat to the left.
2. Side Plank Right
Lie on your right side with your legs straight, and prop up your upper body on your forearm as shown. Raise your hips so your body forms a straight line from ankles to shoulders, and hold for 20 seconds, and then switch sides and repeat.
SET 3
Perform the exercises in the order shown as a straight set. Complete all reps of an exercise before moving on to the next. When you're finished both exercises, rest for 20 seconds. That's 1 round. Do 4 total.
1. Russian Triangle
Sit holding a medicine ball or light dumbbell in front of your chest. Lean your torso back slightly and raise your feet off the floor. Now rotate the ball to your left and then to your right, and then lie down so your back is flat to the floor. That's 1 rep. For your next rep, perform a situp, rotating the ball first to your right and then to your left before lying down again. Repeat for 20 seconds.
2. Plank
Assume a pushup position, but with your elbows bent and your weight resting on your forearms. Your body should form a straight line from your head to your heels. Brace your abs as if you're about to be punched in the gut. Hold this position for 20 seconds.
3. Rest for 20 seconds.
SET 4
Perform the exercises in the order shown, without resting. Complete all reps of an exercise before moving on to the next. That's 1 round. Do 3 total.
1. Ultimate Elbow Stretch
Stand facing a wall. Your arms should be straight down by your sides, and your palms should be pressed against the wall. Without letting your palms release from the wall, walk your feet forward and try to get your chest and shoulders to touch the wall. Hold for 20 seconds.
2. Pigeon Stretch
Kneel on the ground. Let your left knee fall away from your body so your shin is in front of your torso. Stretch your right leg out behind. Place your hands on the floor for balance. You should feel a stretch in your left glute and hip muscles. Hold for 20 seconds, and then switch sides.
3. Hip Flexor Stretch
Stand with your feet together, hands on your hips. Step forward with one foot so your feet are a couple of feet apart. Keep your toes facing forward and your knees slightly bent. Gently push your hips forward until you feel a stretch in the hip of your back leg, and hold this position for 20 seconds. Switch sides and repeat.
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